Mary Ann was away at a linguistics conference in Nicosia for a couple of
days at the end of this week. While she was gone, it rained! Everyone
was very surprised. On the mouseover picture, you can see my new little grape
arbor -- the fruit of last month's efforts. The grapevine has a long way
to grow, still, and I need to finish paving the patio under it, but all-in-all
it's not too bad.
It was a bit sad to have Mary Ann gone, but the kids are mostly settled
into daycare now, so things went okay.
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Mary Ann got home on Saturday night, and then on Sunday we drove back to
Lefke to explore the
ruined
city of Soli.
The city used to be the capital of one of the main kingdoms of Cyprus, very
wealthy due to copper mining and farming. It used to have a very large basilica
on the site of St. Mark's baptism during his visit to Cyprus.
Sadly it was damaged by an earthquake and then destroyed during Arab attacks
in the 7th century.
The copper mines were shut down in the 4th century so there was no longer
enough money or importance in Soli for it to be rebuilt. The city laid buried and
forgotten until the early 1900s.
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There's not much of Soli to see. The main draw is the mosaics from the floor
of the giant basilica. Higher up the hill, there is an old theater -- Roman
built on top of an older Greek. Most of the big stones from theater were
taken away by the British to use building Port Said in Egypt, though. The
remainder has been heavily restored (up to half of the original height) and is
used for summer-time outdoor productions. So it is not really an archaeological
site anymore. The frog insisted that he and Mary Ann put on a show for baby
sister and me while we were there -- Mary Ann was supposed to stand and look
away from him, while he crept up behind her. It was a 'sneaking show'. Very
dramatic. Lots of tension.
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As we were coming down the hill from the theater, Mary Ann commented that she
would be glad to get out of the sun. The frog told her that, in that case, he
had spotted a good place to rest. As he walked down he kept assuring her
"we're getting close to the place that I spotted" and "the place that I
spotted is just around the corner." After arriving he asked her
"aren't you glad that I spotted this place to rest?"
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Just a short ways up the mountains from Soli is the ruins of
Vouni
Palace from the 5th to 4th century BC. Above the palace, at the very top of
the mountain are the ruins of a temple to Athena. From there you can look out
over the mountains to the south or off to the sea to the north.
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The kids were kind of tired out, so we let them sit and play under a tree while we
explored the ruins.
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After exploring Soli and Vouni palace, we hopped down from the mountains
to the beach. Mary Ann wanted to try out a new spot -- a restaurant called
Aspava. Their kebab was good, though Mary Ann didn't like their hummus.
Interestingly, next to the restaurant was a short pier with lockers containing
wind-surfing equipment. It looked like there might be someone who teaches
wind-surfing out of there... something to file away for future investigation.
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There wasn't really any beach at Aspava. It was also very rocky for the first
three or four feet into the water, which was unpleasant. Once we got out into
the water, though, there was plenty of soft sand, and it stayed shallow pretty
far out, which is good for the frog. It was a very windy day, though, so the
waves were quite high.
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After jumping waves and splashing around in the water for a while, we retired
to the end of the long pier to dry off and relax. It does seem like it would
be a good place for dinner -- way out over the water. But it wasn't that great
of a place for swimming.
Sadly, the kids seem to have inherited Mary Ann's inability to tan. A month
of hanging out at the beach, and they're all still white as slugs.
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